Under the London Sun

Our run of dry weather continued for days.

On blue-skied Saturday, we explored their version of the Venice canals (just as we did in Valencia.). It was a glorious day as we travelled to the Italianate neighborhood to find “Little Venice. ”

Indeed,  there were real canals with boats both lining the inlets and plying the waters and we had pleasant paths to parley. But first, ice cream! Many are houseboats and one was even a recording studio!

That night, we bussed to trendy, cool Shoreditch nabe (I,e. Graffiti-spattered, dirty  streets with no one under 30 …and us!). There we found the famous Brick Lane of Jack the Ripper and, more recently, the eponymous novel of Monica Ali.

It was a street filled with vintage shops, tatty cafes, the Brick Lane bookstore and rows of Indian restaurants.  We were headed to one that was highly rated called Balti Eye.

After this meal, we now fully recognize that “highly rated” is over-rated as a restaurant guide.  In this case, highly rated means that the hordes of tourists who visit Brick Lane want a safe, spice-light and sanitized version of Indian food.  We shan’t return!

On Sunday, still sunny, we walked miles to Islington for baked treats at Gail Bakery then on to the Farmers Market for the sweetest strawberries and tartest apples. But the main event of our outing was our Sunday Roast at 2 pm at Drapers Arms. 

It wasn’t just sunny, it was downright warm and humid (like home right now).  We arrived somewhat sweaty to this popular, very British pub and asked to be seated in their back patio.

We shared a whole roast chicken with gravy, veg, Yorkshire pudding and the best bread with creamy butter. It was a feast and we had plenty of takeaway after.

We also shared our table with a gorgeous young family and their visiting aunt from Russia who spoke barely a word of English.  We mostly stuck to talking about restaurants and beaches nearby that they recommended. 

But the state of affairs in Russia did come up. The aunt said, “Russian people good.”  I responded “All people are good. It’s just the governments that often aren’t.” She replied, “ I like Russian government.”  

With that conversation killer, thankfully, our delicious dinner arrived and we all moved on!

Monday was bright again.  We decided to travel by train nearly 2 hours to the beach town of Whitstable on the recommendation of the young family at Sunday dinner.  They said it was famous for oysters fresh from their seaside and its active harbor.

OMG.  We exited the train, walked a bit and arrived at the recommended atmospheric and welcoming Whitstable Oyster Company right across from the beach. The food was a revelation.  While only Andy tried the raw oysters, I joined him for the grilled chimichurri ones.  We also shared grilled scallops and a whole Dover sole. And crusty bread and butter and delicious rose lemonade.  It was a seafood feast by the sea.

Then we walked to the harbor, checked out the rocky beaches, learned one of their tourist boats is a WWII relic of the battle of Dunkirk.  We finished up our tour of the town with a gelato and headed tiredly back to London.  

By 8:30, we were home eating my homey avocado and tomato omelet with warm toast and tea.  And as always, we ended the night with another episode of the never-ending series “Blind Spot.”

Tuesday, they predicted rain soon… but not this morning. So, we hopped a local train to Hampstead Heath, a favorite park of past visits.  The city views are spectacular and the wide open heath welcomed us with open arms and breathtaking cloud formations.

The weather is starting to change.  Tomorrow, they promise it will rain. But tonight we are headed to central London for dinner and a musical: The Six.  It’s about the many wives of Henry VIII.  And England seems the perfectly brilliant place to see it.

First the reign, then the rain!

Below- scenes from Whitstable by the sea and Hampstead Heath in London

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