No matter how much you plan, trips have a mind of their own.
Because we visited Japan literally eight years ago, we didn’t need to do all the first time tourist stops. Instead, we planned on visiting several museums, long walks through iconic gardens and chasing original architecture.
However, Tokyo was having the last burst of summer with temps of 80 plus and humidity to match. No long outdoor garden walks for us. Hanging out in museums, though seemed a perfect plan B, right? Not so fast. Most of the museums we wanted to see were either closed for renovations, closed for upcoming exhibitions, closed for normal closed days or maybe just closed for spite!
Good thing, though, that we walked out of our hotel our first morning in pursuit of breakfast. We are a block from the actual Shiba Park. Just on the other side of the park was a Pain Quotidian, one of our favorite breakfast spots.
We fueled up on coffee, an array of breads and jams and a perfect soft boiled egg. Plus a crispy Belgian chocolate chip cookie for later. We breakfasted there for three days! We tend to find our “nests” wherever we go.
Enroute, we discovered an ancient Buddhist shrine right next door. I mean right next door to our breakfast spot. After breakfast, we explored every delightful nook and pagoda-filled inch of ZOJOJI. We experienced moments of deep calm wandering and watching reverent locals pay homage through gifts of flowers, prayers and coins. We learned the correct shrine etiquette of bowing and handwashing on entry.
The original Zojoji shrine was built in 1622 in the Edo period as the family temple of the rich Tokugawa shoguns. As a result of our contemplative experience here in 2026, we planned another Shrine visit for day 2.
Afterward, we tried to go to the one Art Museum that was open on Weds. We ended up getting lost and were sweaty and miserable by the time we arrived at the National Art Gallery.
The gorgeous undulating exterior of this glass showcase belied its interior. It was definitely NOT a museum but an exhibition space with nothing special on offer in any of its galleries or cafes. Whatever zen we had in the morning, we lost enroute. After a quick iced tea break, we walked sweatily and meltingly back to our peaceful hotel.
That night, we cabbed to a highly rated little pasta joint called Sughero. A mom and pop operation, it felt like being at a sushi counter as we watched our bleached blonde chef prepare our two delicious pastas and a gorgeous caprese salad. The chef and his wife were so lovely and a round of heartfelt arrigatos ensued as we each thanked the other for our meal.
Day 2
Today, we again navigated the 0% zen, 100% inscrutable subway system to see the oldest Shrine in Tokyo called NEZU. I was attracted also by the red Torii gates in the photos that reminded me of Kyoto.
Nezu is a Shinto shrine. These are recognized by their distinctive gates and many-armed deity. The 250 red gates were shorter and closer together than the torii in Kyoto but visitors were just sincere in their reverence. We watched a photographer shoot a young family there for the blessings.
After, we walked through an old neighborhood of quiet, narrow streets with traditional and modern homes packed side by side. We hugged the bits of shade we could find as we walked on this second ragingly hot and humid day. We ended upat Cat Street , a crowded shop and cafe-lined street famous for its cat fetish.
From there we took a train to Andy’s museum choice. Team Lab’s immersive digital art experience called BORDERLANDS. It is in a fancy, modern mall that was happily air conditioned. For me, that was the highlight.
My art experience here was like walking into a dark, psychedelic funhouse. I was disoriented and off balance navigating the mirrored, art immersed rooms that mostly looked like AI coloring book slop run amuck. It was not my jam. But at least Andy enjoyed it. And did I mention it was air conditioned?
Again, we had delicious blue fin tuna, salmon, a white fish and shrimp tempura. All so oishi ( delicious). A local, seated next to Andy, took a shine to us and tried to communicate the proper way to eat sushi. He even offered us a taste of his fried octopus. No one really spoke English there but we managed. And we were a big hit with the manager when we said we were from San Diego. They love the Padres because a local son is a player!
After a brief rest back at home, we walked to Itamae Sushi about a 15 minute walk away. A small, but lively place, we were happily seated at the bar.
Day 3
The weather fever has broken. The rains returned bringing cooler temps. We decided to splurge on taxis as it was raining most of the day and our destinations were further away.
First stop was the Contemporary Art Museum. It was everything we could want. Great architecture. interesting exhibits, especially the one about pre and postwar Taiwan art and artists. We were there 2 hours savoring it all.
Then, we taxied to the poshest indoor food galleries in the basement of a department store called Isatan Shinjuku.
So much beautiful food, beautifully displayed. But we couldn’t eat anything. Why? No indoor seating and the rooftop deck was open to the rainy skies! We were so starving and losing it when we decided to try to at least find ice cream. Back to the basement we went. As always, people were incredibly kind and patient in showing us where to go. And miracle of miracles, the gelato shop had its own seating. We quickly restored our blood sugar with 3 scoops of the yummy, silky stuff.
Then back to Shiba Park. That night, we walked to another hole in the wall located in an alley called Thank Daimin. There we happily slurped two bowls of delicious ramen.
Home to pack that night. Sunday morning we leave for Haneda Airport to fly to Sapporo in Hokkaido in the North..
In a city of 14 million, we found so much kindness and warmth from everyone we encountered. In this bustling metro, we also found old and new in constant juxtaposition. Best of all, we could experience fast-paced city life and yet as quickly retreat to peaceful spots moments away. That is the magic of Zen/Not Zen Tokyo.
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