Our two full days in Sapporo were a kaleidoscope of experiences.

A quick flight took us from from Tokyo to Hokkaido, Japan’s northern Island. We were ready for something different. And boy did we get it!

We got off the plane, took a train and headed to Sapporo, Hokkaido’s largest city.  

Fav Lux, our uber modern hotel was of the digital genre, meaning there’s virtually no staff and you check in yourself.  Our room turned out to be a “closet” next to the elevator.  We went back down to speak to the one poor guy manning the front desk cum coffee bar to change our room.  He didn’t speak English but he pulled out his translation app and we texted each other until he figured out we wanted another room.  The next room was better. 

Since we arrived late in the afternoon, we spent some time exploring our neighborhood. Turns out, we  were just  a few blocks from their version of Times Square.  It’s the entertainment and restaurant district and is throbbing day and night with giant neon billboards and multiple multiplexes. That first night, we had a wild  izikaya dinner experience where the waiters all yell whenever food comes out of the kitchen. It was a lively spot and our waiter treated us to sake after.

The next day,  it was drizzling but the weather report said it would clear up later. We have rain jackets so we decided to go to someplace Andy was excited about… a cemetery.  Apparently, Makomanai Takino Cemetery  built  a mini Stonehenge and Moai Warrior statue entryway to either attract visitors or to protect the dead. Go figure. It also had a famous Buddha head called “Hill of the Buddha” designed by Architect Tadeo Ando so I was game to check it out. Off we went in a light drizzle for the one hour train and bus combo expedition.

Enroute, we realized the Buddha was closed for maintenance but we are now committed. We get on the bus and it is pouring  as we wend our way up a mountain road to the last stop literally and figuratively.  By now, it is a deluge!

Fortunately,  the cemetery has a large main building with a restaurant and a gift shop so we can dry off inside!  We try to wait out the rain but it’s coming down in buckets. Finally, we buy two cheap umbrellas in the gift shop and start walking toward the “Stonehenge.” Getting drenched from head to toe despite the aforementioned umbrellas, we didn’t make it all the way but we got to see it from a distance.  We shot a funny little video about this totally ersatz art experience. When things go so far astray, you can either rage or laugh.  We laughed ourselves silly.

Back down the hill by bus and the torrent follows us. But by the time the city train gets to our station, it has stopped.

Rather than head home we decide to explore Pole City…and it’s not what you’re thinking.

Pole City is underground city of restaurants and shops connecting Sapporo’s three main train stations. It’s miles long.  We also found a real supermarket, Daiso, with real food unlike the omnipresent 7/11s and Lawsons convenience stores on every block. We bought some fruit, bread, peanut butter and jelly to have for breakfast and snacks,

 Because of the long, snowy winters  (think Sapporo Winter Olympics) and monsoonal rains, there’s a lot of underground life and amenities from shopping center basement food halls to designer shops.

When we returned to our hotel,  we had the best part of day 1. Our hotel may not have high touch service but it does have an awesome Onsen!

We donned  the provided kimonos and headed off to our separate his & hers bath retreats. The onsen was immaculate with hot and cold pools and a dry sauna. It felt great to get so deeply clean and relaxed.

That night, we had delicious curry of veggies and chicken at a specialty restaurant serving only Soup Curry. Oishi.

Did I mention that Hokkaido is also famous for their cows? Not the meat kind. Dairy  cows. Throughout the region, we found countless shops serving Hokkaido soft serve ice cream in various flavors.  The rich Hokkaido  butter and yogurt were also excellent and plentiful. In other words, I didn’t starve with all that ice cream abd yummy dairy around!

Day 2 was my  art outing pick.  Again,  the weatherman said early showers only  but we saw blue skies peeking out. Coincidentally, my pick was in the same location as yesterday… but only halfway up the hill.

Sapporo Art Park is nearly 100 acres of forested pathways with amazing over 70 sculptures by mostly Japanese artists tucked along each byway.  Frequent drizzles—but no downpours— added to the atmosphere.  Now, this is my idea of magical Forest Bathing! The quiet zen of rustling lay leaves, the rain sprinkles (we have our cheap umbrellas with us) kept us enraptured for nearly two hours.  Definitely a peak experience.

We had flown to Hokkaido, a northern island hoping for some fall colors in late September.  It was still a bit early but we started seeing autumn colors amongst the green while wandering this incredible sculpture park

Dinner that night was a mutton bbq, another local specialty…and nearly nothing for me to eat. But my carnivore was happy.

While watching a comedy on the large tv screen that actually connected us to Netflix, we packed up for our train trip to Noribetsu the next morning.