Bonjour chers amis. We are now in week 3 of our Paris adventures and I’d like to share some rules and revelations of our stay.

Oh, the Food

The French are beyond serious about food. It’s a part of their patrimony.

The reason every neighborhood has not just  freestanding bakeries with fresh baguettes—but also cheese stores, butchers and fishmongers plus bustling farmers markets 1-2x week— is that they believe fresh, seasonal food is a human right and providing it is a noble profession.

And, though they still believe in drenching food with heavy sauces in many restaurants, they’re now quite accommodating of people like me who say “sauce on the side” please or have a food allergy.

Locals in Paris do eat late at night,  then go to bistros for even later nights of drinking and socializing.  We feel like “early birds” when we eat at 7. But it’s also easier to snag an early reservation or just walk in at opening hours.

Smoking at cafes and bistros is still a thing. But smokers need to do it outside so cafes are busy with sidewalk customers even on rainy nights… if they have covered patios or awnings.  For cleaner air, be sure to ask to eat indoors!

Urban Life

Yes, the Parisiennes are more chic than the rest of us.  Above the ankle, everyone seems effortlessly put together.  But women don’t run around town in high heels regardless of what the movies and Vogue tell you.  

It is absolutely essential to say “Bonjour” before you ask anyone for anything. However, once you do, most people are unfailingly nice and helpful.  I’ve even been offered a seat on crowded metros.

Speaking of metros, can I sing a love song to the excellence of this amazing train network? You are never more than a few blocks from a train station. The stops are clearly marked and you can buy a phone  pass that gets you past the turnstile in a flash. The trains come quickly, on time and the stations feel safe day and night because they are rarely empty.

Of course, if you’ve worn your feet to a hot mess, Uber works great almost everywhere and you rarely have a long wait.

Apartment living (or possibly TMI)

We are staying in a beautiful, Haussmann apartment with intricate plaster decorations on all the ceilings. It has wood floors covered with oriental rugs, a well-equipped kitchen, a spacious dining and living room and 3 bedrooms with large, terraced windows.  However, we were nervous about there being only one bathroom for four adults!

It was not a problem!  The WC was a separate room with its own sink.  The Bathroom has a large sink and vanity plus a shower/bathtub.  With a little courtesy, we all did fine.

As those who have been following this trip know, we are trading apartments with a Parisian gentleman who is visiting his San Diego family.  We stay in touch as needed when questions arise, but it has basically been a breeze. 

Parisian Style

Sneakers, preferably sparking white ones, are de rigueur for men and women. As are comfy walking shoes, boots and low heels.  This is a walking city after all.

Paris is deservedly called a beautiful city. They lovingly keep, restore and/or repurpose historic buildings. Flowers and flower stands are everywhere. Monumental sculptures abound. There are manicured parks and museums dripping with arts and artifacts of every kind throughout the city. The River Seine, and the iconic bridges that traverse it, are a gift of scenic delight that keeps on giving. 

Even in the rain, Paris sparkles.  Rainy days in Paris have been a frequent part of our stay here and people just go about their day with unbrellas in tow.

Paris in the rain has been the inspiration of countless artists, poets and writers throughout time.  In fact, Andy composed a piece (pre-trip) called “ A Rainy Night in Paris“ which has new resonance for us  from living here. 

But, of all of Paris’ charms, we are most deeply  enamored of the Eiffel Tower. It is our lodestar to finding our way home. It is striking to see both day and night.

And  it does offer magnificent views of the city from above.  My sister was lucky enough to score a ticket to the top on a Sunday afternoon.  We had to settle for the second level mid-week when technical issues cancelled our top floor access.  Still, it was beautiful!

J&J made good use of their time with us  with several visits to the Eiffel day and night and for a romantic photoshoot early one morning and their last night race to catch the sparkling lights.  

The Eiffel Tower is the essence of Paris, a breathtaking work of artistic and engineering genius that declares you are nowhere else in the world.

You are in Paris!