Chilling in Bardolino

Bologna: where a non-meat eater goes off the reservation

We picked up our rental car in Verona airport and headed to our day at the lake– Lake Garda. We were told it’s a more beautiful lake than Como and not filled with Americans desperately seeking a sighting of Amal Clooney’s husband. In fact, we stopped at a charming lakeside town of Bardolino with quaint alleys of shops and restaurants and postcard views off the lake as you strolled the boardwalk. The water was warm and clear and we dawdled too long before beginning the long drive to Bologna.

Why Bologna? I don’t know why we picked this town originally other than it’s in the heart of Emilia-Romagna country where lots of great food products originate. But we are so glad we did. We are staying at another lovely, arty hotel in the old city: Art Hotel Novecenti. Thank you Booking.com for all these great spots and all in our budget.

Bologna is a real city with a large medieval center brimming with gorgeous architectural details from archways to painted ceilings, to impressive piazzas to warrens of streets and alleyways with shops, bars and restaurants tucked in every corner.

There is no end of foodie venues but the big thing here is, of course, bolognese sauce with every type of pasta. There’s also unbelievable charcuterie from the happy pigs of Parma. And, apparently, the cows are happy too as this is also where Parmesan cheese originates. So this normally veggie/ pescaterian eater decided to go awol and eat like a native for a couple of days. I guess that’s where the expression “when in Rome …” comes from! Meat whoring commences.

We have so far enjoyed green lasagne bolognese, prosciutto and for lunch today homemade tagliatelle bolognese and tortelloni with butter and sage. How do we consume so much, you ask? Well we’ve already walked 6 miles today through piazzas and lost passages that including climbing a medieval tower of 46 staircases or maybe 47 but I’m not going back up to recount. The views of the city, its medieval, gothic and Romanesque churches and countless red roofs were worth the climb.

It’s still pretty damn hot and we returned from lunch for a nice rest before we plan dinner at a hip charcuterie stop along the bustling bar scene of Bologna. 

   
   
Meat whoring and tower climbing in Bologna